This morning we all left very early from Kafue to reach Chongwe, unbelievable but true we were perfectly on time, the truck with my bamboo bike and some representatives of the project in Chikupi, it had a puncture twice… so the departure ceremony which was meant to start at 9 started at 10,30. It was nice to hear ourselves on the radio as we were going, my voice seemed different but everybody said it is just like that even in reality …
The ceremony was sober and touching and I leave the story to Giorgia. What impressed me the most were the singing and the prayers to ensure to the traveler, that is myself, a safe journey and the group departure by bicycle with the local authorities, the Italian Ambassador, wearing the Sport2build cycling jersey, and sympathizers, in particular one who followed me, sweating excessively for the first 12 km of gravel road full of stones which from the Palace take you to the road for Chipata.
We left Chongwe around midday, then after the gravel road more photos, farewells, hugs, group photos, photos with one person, photos with couples, photos with helmet … on the other hand if I wanted to leave on time I should have gone for a tour of Switzerland. Dominic was crying for my leaving and that confirmed to me that by now I have committed myself too much with Zambia. Dominic who cries because he is certain I will not come back, in spite of all the reassurance of everybody, makes me think how come us musungu appear to be not believable in the eyes of our Zambian brothers.
The stage went well in spite of the unfavorable wind, I have the feeling that it will bother me all the way to Chipata. Continuous ups and downs, fresh air, golden grass bent towards me, and trucks full of charcoal over every possible imagination have been the choreography of this stage.
Soon after the village of Chinyunyu, I saw an arrow with written ‘Chinyunyu hot spring Heritage Site’. Never heard of it in 6 years! I immediately went to see and a few meters from the road, I found boiling water, a decadent hotel I think closed, and some people having a hot bath full of soap.
Just outside a kantemba, a small shop where you can find basic needs stuff, I found Hutu refugee from Rwuanda for a long time in Zambia who, I do not know why, approached me in French, at the end of a pleasant discussion he asked me: “But are you really going to London? You really do not have a car?”. A curiosity this kantemba combined to all the usual sub-brand products, some small bottles of Smirnof.
I found a place to sleep at the Shingela Kamkumba Basic School, after evaluating all the possible solutions, the Deputy Teacher accommodated me in the staff room, as he was going out he told me not to be scared if I heard some noises it is only full of bats! I mounted my tent and I fixed it to the book cases … As I am writing they kick up a racket … There is also a trap door on the floor which I think is used as a safe.
Tomorrow I would like to try and reach Lwangwa.
Chieftness Nkomesha’s Chongwe Royal Palace S 15°23.228’ E 028°44.891’– Shingela Kamkumba Basic School S 15°.242’ E 29°.161’
72 km